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F1 24 » F1 24: How To Change Any Car Setup After The Handling Patch
The first big update for F1 24 has been released with the v1.3 handling patch. This has significantly changed how the cars drive and means car setup changes are required.
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Just over a week after launching with some pretty extreme handling characteristics, F1 24 has received its first big patch, which updates the car’s handling. The new update fixes many of the unrealistic levels of grip and responsiveness that were present at launch.
Such a large game update affects handling, which in turn affects car setups. We’ve produced a batch of race-optimised car setups since the launch of F1 24, and a few big changes are required to get the car back up to speed and handling well again.
The v1.3 update targeted a few specific areas of the handling model, which received the most criticism. These were;
The creative director for F1 24, Lee Mather, said that the new changes are designed to “calm down the front end of the car, giving a more realistic level of grip and turn-in capabilities.“
Our video below discusses the new handling model in more detail and provides a run through of exactly what can be changed after the v1.3 patch.
One consequence of this new handling model is that the car setups that we and others have created in the past week, do need some adjustments.
Depending on which car setups you’ve been using, you’ll need to change a few things.
Going back to our car setups, I now want to talk about what you need to adjust to any of our original car setups to make them feel better after the handling update.
During my testing, I feel there is a big enough change required to some setups to warrant new car setup videos. These will start being released shortly, after I’ve spent some more time with this handling update.
Subscribing to our YouTube channel is the best way of seeing our car setups when they do launch as they always get released on YouTube before anywhere else.
I’m going to be using my original Bahrain setup as a base for showing what to change.
Starting with the aerodynamics, our original car setups were often created to reduce the incredibly pointy front-end. This meant small gaps between front and rear wings to keep the car balanced. After the update, the cars feel much more prone to understeer than before, so we need to eliminate this in our setup.
I would recommend creating a bigger offset between the front and rear wings. Say around a gap of 10 points depending on the track. Adjusting this to 36 and 26 will help improve the turn-in capabilities of the car.
After the patch, traction is harder to find. This means more wheel spin is likely. We can use the transmission to help combat that a little. I have found that reducing the on-throttle differential can help reduce wheel spin.
The other change I would recommend making is increasing the engine braking slightly. If you were using a time trial setup, you won’t need to do this as they used to run high engine braking setups. However, our setups reduced the engine braking to help with stability early to mid-corner.
The suspension geometry is an important part of the car setup, and can really help us tune in some responsiveness or stability. Moving the camber more to the left increases the angle giving more grip mid corner.
While traction can be harder to find after the handling patch, it is also easier to lose the car mid corner, especially if running high anti-roll bar setups. We can combat this slightly by updating our toe setup. Adding rear toe to our car setup will improve stability, making the rear of the car more compliant overall.
One of the biggest setup changes needed is with the anti-roll bar setup. Running a stiff front suspension and soft rear suspension still appears to be the best option, but more emphasis is now on using optimised ARBs.
Time trial setups typically use 21-21 anti-roll bars. This used to provide the best grip without the negative consequences. Our race setups did the opposite. We used to lower the ARBs right down to increase overall stability.
After this patch, somewhere in the middle of these two approaches seems to work well. Setting the ARBs too high will now cause instability mid-corner and can result in your car snapping on you. Setting them too low will highlight the new understeer characteristics.
I would recommend moving the ARBs to somewhere in the region of 15-12 to 12-9. This will obviously differ from track to track but is a great starting point for most circuits.
One really big area of improvement with the new handling is the reduction in brake loclups. It used to be incredibly easy to lock a wheel resulting in rearward brake bias setups and lower brake pressure.
With this tendency gone, you can set your brake pressure higher and run a slightly more frontward brake bias if you’d like. It is much harder to lock a wheel, and if anything, rear stability under braking is a little worse resulting in the need for a more front-biased setup.
With those changes in place, you should be able to continue using our car setups in F1 24 with more success. Using our old car setups without making changes may result in a car that is prone to understeer. And using an old time trial setup can make your car incredibly hard to drive now.
From my testing of the new F1 24 handling so far, I think new car setups videos will be needed at many tracks. So keep an eye out for them dropping shortly. Subscribe to our YouTube channel to be among the first to see our new car setups as they’re released.
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Rich is the co-founder, and one of the main F1 setup creators and content writers for SimRacingSetups. With over a decade of experience as a graphic designer, marketing director, competitive sim racer and avid motorsport fan, Rich founded SimRacingSetup.com to share his passion and knowledge of sim racing and Formula 1 with other sim racers.
View all articles written by RichFind the latest sim racing car setups to always have the advantage on track, with the best ACC car setups, iRacing setups and F1 24 setups.
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