Discover our recommended Logitech G923 force feedback settings for F1 24 that are designed to improve the FFB. Include calibration settings for the G923 on Xbox, PS5 and PC.
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The Logitech G923 racing wheel is one of the first wheels I recommend to Sim racers who are shopping on a budget or looking to try Sim racing for the first time. It is an excellent, affordable racing wheel that works with almost every racing game on every console platform.
This makes it perfect for use in F1 24. The game includes preset configurations and button mapping for the G923 wheel, making it incredibly easy to pick up and play.
I’ll show you our recommended wheel settings for the Logitech G923 in F1 24 in this guide. These settings change a few of the default options to provide a more immersive experience, gives you better control over your car, and better force feedback in general.
I will start this wheel settings guide with our recommended force feedback settings in F1 24. You can also change some settings in the Logitech G Hub software if you are racing on a PC.
F1 24 provides a small number of force feedback settings that you can change to adjust how various forces feel through your wheel. These are generally limited to dictating the strength of the feedback while driving across different surfaces.
Below is a rundown of our recommended G923 F1 24 settings. These settings work on all platforms, including Xbox, PS5 and PC.
| F1 24 setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Vibration & FFB | On |
| Vibration & FFB Strength | 120 |
| On Track Effects | 75 |
| Rumble Strip Effects | 30 |
| Off Track Effects | 20 |
| Pit Stop Effects | 50 |
| Wheel Damper | 20 |
| Wheel rotation° | 370° |
Many of the force feedback settings in F1 24 are pretty easy to understand as most control different parts of the track surface.
Starting at the top, you will want to ensure the vibration and force feedback is turned on. You can then dictate the strength of the FFB by setting the strength. Higher values will make the vibrations and feedback more pronounced through your steering wheel. However, setting this value too high can introduce clipping.
FAQ: Clipping is the term given for when the outputted force feedback from the game exceeds the limitation of your racing wheel. This can result in the force feedback detail becoming muddy as even the most minor feedback can feel as strong as the largest effects. You will always want to avoid clipping to create the most natural and well-rounded FFB possible.
The next series of settings dictates how strong the force feedback is at various places on the track. The on track effects will change the intensity of track surface changes, such as a dirty track surface and bumps and imperfections.
The kerb and rumble strip effects change how violent driving over the kerbs can be. Much like the off track effects, I would recommend keeping this relatively low so the kerbs don’t shake the steering wheel out of your hand.
Off track effects will adjust the intensity of off track areas such as gravel, grass and runoff areas. I would always recommend keeping this setting low as you won’t want your wheel to become uncontrollable while you try to recover the car back onto the track.
The final setting is the wheel damper. This will add a sense of friction and weight to your steering wheel, making it heavier and harder to rotate. Damping your wheel can add realism, but too much can make the wheel feel slow, sticky, and unresponsive. I’d recommend keeping this setting relatively low.
There is currently a known issues with Logitech racing wheels with some versions of F1 24. You may find that you experience no force feedback at all, or sometimes that your wheel isn’t even recognised in game.
I have had this happen once during my time with my G923 wheel. I fixed it by running a complete power cycle through the wheel. This can be done by simply disconnecting the power or switching the wheel off at the wall outlet.
Doing this, while also ensuring that G Hub as already running before starting F1 24 or my turning my wheel on fixed this issue. Hopefully EA Sports will address this soon, as there always seems to be some issue at launch with a certain wheel. It happened last year, and it seems to be happening again this year with some Logitech wheels.
If you are using an older Logitech racing wheel, such as the G29 and G920, I would recommend changing a few settings in F1 24. These two wheels have slightly less peak performance and strength, meaning boosting the wheel settings can help.
Below are our recommendations for the G29 and G920 in F1 24.
| F1 24 setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Vibration & FFB | On |
| Vibration & FFB Strength | 125 |
| On Track Effects | 35 |
| Rumble Strip Effects | 45 |
| Off Track Effects | 20 |
| Wheel Damper | 20 |
You can also change the calibration settings in F1 24 in addition to the force feedback settings. This set of settings can make your racing wheel feel a little more natural and fix any issues you may have.
Common issues with a racing wheel in F1 24 include;
The calibration settings in F1 24 is the area where you can fix all of these issues.
The first thing you should really do when starting F1 24 with a new racing wheel connected is to perform a button test. This is accessible from the controller settings menu and will help you highlight any potential issues.
The button test will let you push all inputs on your steering wheel, rotate your wheel, and push all pedals to check that they are working correctly in F1 24. You can start this by pressing the on-screen button prompt from the wheel settings menu.
While performing a button test, rotate the steering wheel, press all pedals and push all buttons. As you do this you should see three bars moving from 0 to 100, and all button pushes being recognised on screen.
If any of the on screen bars are not reading zero while you aren’t touching your wheel or pedals, you will need to adjust your deadzone. If you cannot reach 100% input while fully turning your wheel or pushing your pedals, you can adjust your saturation setting.
Each input has its own setting for deadzone, saturation and linearity and can be adjusted from the calibration screen. The deadzone will create a deadzone on your input, meaning as you apply any input, the game won’t recognise it until it reaches a certain point.
Increasing the deadzone can help remove any unwanted inputs while your wheel and pedals are at their rest position. You will only want to increase the deadzone enough until all inputs aren’t registering any in-game input.
The saturation setting is the opposite of the deadzone. It reduces the amount of input required to reach 100% throttle, brake, or steering input in the game. Increasing this setting will reduce how far you need to apply an input before it registers 100% in the game.
Tweaking both settings can eliminate drifting to one side on a straight and remove unwanted brake and throttle inputs.
Top tip: If you notice your DRS closing on its own while on a straight, it may be because your brake pedal registers a small amount of input. Increasing the brake deadzone can prevent this.
The linearity setting is designed to adjust the curve for each input. Increasing this setting can make the pedals and steering less sensitive at the start of their travel giving you finder levels of control. This can be helpful on the throttle as it may make driving F1 24 without traction control easier.
The steering rate setting is designed primarily for those using a controller or gamepad. I would always recommend leaving this at zero when racing F1 24 with a wheel like the Logitech G923.
With the Logitech G923 being one of the most popular racing wheels, it does have its own configuration in F1 24 on all consoles and should be recognised the first time you start the game. If it isn’t showing in game, or if you wish to make changes to the settings such as using our recommendations above, you may need to adjust some settings.
Below is a quick run-through of the process of setting up a Logitech G923 racing wheel in F1 24.
You can access the G Hub software if you are racing on a PC. This lets you update the firmware on the G923 and set a few wheel settings. These settings are independent of the in-game F1 24 force feedback settings.
I would recommend the settings below for G Hub.
As mentioned, F1 24 supports the Logitech G923 right away, meaning the game will recognise your wheel right away and a preset button map configuration is available.
Below is an overview of the preset Logitech G923 button layout in F1 24. You can change any of these maps by scrolling to the input you wish to change, selecting it, and pressing the new input.
| Action | Racing wheel input |
|---|---|
| Accelerate | Throttle Pedal |
| Brake | Brake Pedal |
| Steer Left | Steering Wheel Turned Left |
| Steer Right | Steering Wheel Turned Right |
| Pause | Menu |
| Gear Up | Right Paddle Shifter |
| Gear Down | Left Shifter Paddle |
| Clutch | Right Paddle Shifter (Used for race starts) |
| Overtake | X/A |
| Next Camera | Unassigned |
| Camera Free Look | Unassigned |
| Look Back | Circle/B |
| Replay/Flashback | Unassigned |
| DRS | Triangle/Y |
| Pit Limiter | Square/X |
| Radio Commands | Unassigned |
| Multi-Function Display | Cross/A |
If you don’t own a racing wheel, the Logitech G923 is one of the best places to start. It is affordable, widely compatible with most racing games and consoles, and performs well for its price.
All of these factors make it an excellent choice for racing F1 24. I recommend reading our guide on the best racing wheels for F1 24 to see where we rank the Logitech G923. Although, spoiler, we think it’s one of the best budget racing wheels you can currently buy.
The goal with any wheel and force feedback settings is to improve your comfort and enjoyment with a racing wheel as well as improve the feedback you receive. By changing the settings in this guide, we can ensure the Logitech G923 is performing at its best in F1 24.
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There are a couple of different versions of the Logitech G923 wheel. One for PlayStation and another for Xbox. Both work with PC, but you do need to ensure you get the correct version fo your console to ensure it works with F1 24.
Logitech introduced new technology to the G923 with TrueForce which is new vibration technology. They also improved the design slightly and the brake pedal a lot. These all make the G923 much better than the older G29 and G920.
I have recommended individual G29 and G920 settings for F1 24 above. Generally, you will want to increase the force feedback strength as the G29 is slightly less powerful than the newer G923.
Rich is the founder, F1 car setup creator and content writer for SimRacingSetups. With over a decade of experience as a graphic designer, marketing director, competitive sim racer and avid motorsport fan, Rich founded SimRacingSetup.com to share his passion and knowledge of sim racing and Formula 1 with other sim racers. Regularly writes for sim racing website SimRaceReviews.com
View all articles written by Rich
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